terça-feira, maio 26, 2020
Início Marcenaria What You Need to Know About Glue | WOODWORKING BASICS

What You Need to Know About Glue | WOODWORKING BASICS

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Esvb64fUQ10?rel=0&autoplay=1&autoplay=1&modestbranding=1&w=580&h=385]

Gluing is an essential part of woodworking. Here are the basics to get you started. Please read the full article for more info ▻▻ http://bit.ly/Gluing PLEASE …

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34 COMENTÁRIOS

  1. For end-grain glue ups I use Gorilla glue (the only useful purpose it has). I've glued 2×4 scraps together to make longer timbers and sat on them (carefully). You have to dampen the ends real good. The polyurethane gets sucked up into the micro-tubules and provides a fair amount of strength.

  2. Fun tip with wood glue. Wood clue won't stick to vinyl. Sooooooo, If you have an old vinyl record that is dirty and scratchy, Coat the record with a thin layer of wood glue and let it dry. When you gently peel it off, it takes the dirt in the grooves with it. And you have a negative with decades of dirt stuck to it.

  3. Question: does anyone else find that today's "5 minute epoxy" is mis-named, i.e. doesn't harden in 5 minutes like it used to 20 years ago. Back then I had a job as a photocopier technician and I frequently used LePage's 5 minute epoxy to repair, rebuild and reinforce broken parts in the field – like a broken nylon gear sprocket for example. I would mix and apply the epoxy and then keep turning the part in space so the glue wouldn't flow and drip in one direction. I could keep turning it for about 3-4 minutes and by 5 minutes, the glue was stiff enough that it wouldn't flow, but still soft enough that I could dent it with a finger nail. I would often shape it with a knife or file and then after about 30 minutes to an hour, I would risk putting stress on it. It was my go-to wonder product. Then I got a different job and didn't use epoxy much for a few years. Now when I try to use it, it seems extremely slow to harden. After five minutes it's just starting to thicken, and it takes a good 10 minutes to set enough that it won't flow.

  4. surprisingly you left out the most important part of using glue! Checking for a date code.
    All Titebond products have a date code and if you don't find it clearly marked on the container even Titebond says "go buy it somewhere that clearly displays it"

  5. There's what I call "double gluing" i.e., using mastic for "Z" bricks with a couple of dots of hot glue to quickly hold position and prevent sagging – or say a piece of trim in a hard spot to hold use carpenter's glue with dots of hot glue – good video.

  6. One problem with PVA glues is creep. They remain a bit soft and when gluing up layers of wood under tension, like curved components, the layers will creep over time and reveal the layers. Don't ask how I know this, you can guess.

  7. hey steve i really like your videos, u remind me of a more happy version of my woodshop teacher from highschool. just wanted to let ya know what i do about the run out glue, i let the ooze dry and then chizle the glue off it leaves alot less to sand. let me know if it works for ya:)

  8. Thanks for the video! I like all of your videos…question though when glueing a small decorative box type project where it's tough to get into the corners, what do you use to get excess glue off? Or maybe there's a better technique? Thanks!!

  9. One silly thing I disagree with: if i have a nice clean bead of glue squeezing out while clamping, I don't wipe it, I leave it alone! A quick scrape will take off a bead of glue cleanly and requires less sanding in the end than would the smear.

    Thanks for the cideos. I love your sense of humor! Keep them coming!

  10. I have become a fan of your videos, as a newbie to wood working, your presentation  style makes the subject more interesting and I retain more than the dry presentation of others.  Who would guess I would enjoy a video on "glue" ???

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