[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbiXJd_1l8Y?rel=0&autoplay=1&autoplay=1&modestbranding=1&w=580&h=385]

Don’t be intimidated! Wood finishing is simple and easy. This video will get you started with the basics. Visit Casper, this week’s sponsor at …



  1. For your Danish oil or teak oil have you tried putting a wax over the top? It's expensive to do both, but it is a lot more durable than just the oil alone. Also, I think that linseed oil takes a very long time to dry because of the resins used. I could be wrong about the American version but that's what it is like here in New Zealand. And another good finish to use would be moisture cure polyurethane. That stuff is fantastic. Like applying 50 coats of polyurethane, it goes off by the content of moisture in the atmosphere so you have to use it within 24 hrs.

  2. Oil based polyurethane thinned 10% – 15% with mineral spirits. Apply thin coats, first coat apply, wait 12 – 24 hours, sand with the grain w/400 grit, apply 2nd coat, allow to dry, sand against the grain w/400, apply 3rd coat, allow to dry, sand with the grain w/400, SPRAY on 4th and final coat, sand very lightly against the grain w/800, then with the grain w/1200 – 2000 grit. Break out the Turtle Wax – Super shell automotive wax, apply, let dry ~15 min. buff to high mirror shine.

    You only have to retouch this finish every few years, it's hands down the best way to finish and protect your wood.

  3. Thank you, I'm getting ready to do my very first "carpentry work", I'm going to do a porch door out of teak. What finish do you recommend for teak, We grow our own teak, but I noticed compared to Vietnamese teak is a bit whiter, some pieces have a golden color to it, but mostly is light. I would like a classic finish, any recommendation?
    Thank you
    Semper Fi

  4. Thank You from a guy who just wanted to sand the top of an Old Meeting House Maple chest of drawers and wound up with the chest of drawers in 17 pieces.

    The piece is solid maple and I've orbital sanded everything starting at 60 (to remove old finish, dents, cup rings, etc) then going to 120 and finishing with 220.

    Now what do I do? I'm afraid to stain it. If I could just get a wet version of the wood, that would be plenty dark?

    I prefer the oil look but want the protection of poly, though I don't like poly. If poly, should I use glossy or semi-glossy?

    Finally, I haven't seen anyone wet-sand their pieces to raise the grain and sand that that would rise to the occasion, off? I recall using this method 30 years ago, when I finished my last wood working project; a rifle stock.

    Wow, this maple is beautiful after 220! Help!

    Oh, loved your video and delivery.

  5. Steve Ramsey, I've watched the whole video, and I'm definitely a Newby.. I like the natural look. So with the Tung oil or linseed do they come is different colours? Or can I stain it first then finish is with the oils? Anybody that can help is welcome.. I'm not sure what kind of wood the side table is but I do not like red in the colour,, I def like a natural walnut colour… How do I achieve this?? I don't want to lacquer it after either.. I don't like the shiny look for this project… HELP! ANYONE!

  6. Im not Finish, Im Norwegian. But hey loking at this stains my eyes. The products in use are nowhere to be fount in Europe. But you're a US guy making stuff with an intro to some gripper thing that does not exist "offline" here in my country. BTW Your videos are nice thou.

  7. That was an excellent video Steve. I have been finishing my jewelry boxes with Danish oil and then poly and gotten great results but didn't know if that was the way things were supposed to be done. This video vindicates my basic understanding of good, clean, natural looking finishes. Thanks

  8. hey steve I've only ever worked on a few projects where i actually felt the need to finish. The first was a gaming table for my brother which has a sunk in center where he plays the games and a raised edge around the outside (about 6" thick) that has cup holders and some trays in it, almost like a poker table, anyways the outer raised edge sees a lot of hands and a lot of forearm. we used a stain and then multiple coat of polyurethane(if i remember correctly we used 5) the finish has almost started to break down and wear from the oils it seems, i just wonder if there isn't a better way to finish this project. he wanted a semi-gloss on it so that is what we used. The other project I did was a couple of floating night stands which turned out really nice. I used paint then just a aerosol varathane(not sure if this is a lacquer or a poly) i am very happy with the finish on that project. So my question through all of this is…

    He wants another table built possibly this summer (different dimensions and he wants to use a harder wood for the table top) just wondering which finish we should use, not sure if he wants to go with a semi-gloss again or not, but he for sure wants something that is going to be able to take a beating (not literally going to be beating it but this table sees a ton of use) also which category does this varathane diamond coat fall under.

    sorry for the really long winded question. thank in advance for any answers you can provide

  9. Thank you Steve, I really love your videos.. and you have been a guru to me.. as i learnt wood working all from youtube and most of them are your videos.. recently i have started working with scrollsaw and having been using lacquer to finish my work.. one problem that I see is that the lacqur is tick and makes a thick layer which I don't want.. I don't know if I should add any spirit or thinner with it ? below is the link of some of my wood works.. which looks great before they are polished with licquer but when i use lacquer, they become ugly..

    I appreciate your kind advice on this..